We were there before Obama - reflections from cuba

Ok, confession right from the start: this is not a Cred-related blog. Equally it's not going to be a long-winded account of all the places that Tim and I have visited on our wonderful 2-week holiday in Cuba. 

But as I know that some of you who read this blog have been to Cuba, and others of you are planning visits, and still others of you are just interested in life beyond the local communities in which we all find ourselves, I thought I would indulge in a bit of reflection on this fascinating country and its wonderful people.

And don't worry, it won't be deep and philosophical - it's too hot for that. But I hope that by the end of it you will have a bit of a feel for a country which has been through all sorts of history, and is about to embark on a new chapter that I suspect will have more of an impact than they have even started to imagine.

One disclaimer before I get going - Tim and I have only had a 2-week, 4-location tiny peek into the life of Cuba, so I am not by any means trying to claim in any way to be an authority. These reflections are based purely on observations and interactions that have taken place during our time in Havana, Vinales, Trinidad and Varadero. But that's better than nothing, and compared to some holiday makers here who have only done the beach resort bit, I think we've had a reasonable overview.

The first place that we stayed was in Havana, and the overwhelming impression of the capital city of Cuba was one of being in a timewarp. It really felt as though we had stepped back 50 years, with cars that had come off the set of 'Grease', and buildings that were once impressive in their architecture, but had been left to crumble, decay and generally look very tired. 

As well as the old fashioned cars that are clearly loved and polished daily to ensure they survive, and attract tourists who want to ride in them, other transport options around the city included horse and cart, bike taxis, and a range of buses, trucks, and eastern bloc cars in various states of disrepair. 

The food shops are few and far between, and they all seem to sell the same few items, at the same prices. Fruit and veg - you buy that from the man with a cart who sets up stall on the roadside, and again it's of a very limited variety. 

Whilst much of this is clearly one aspect of being in a communist country where everything is centrally run with no room for entrepreneurship, or competition, this is also an outworking of being in a country that has to a certain extent been cut off from much of the world for the past half century or so. I'm not going to enter into a political reflection on communism versus capitalism at this stage, but suffice to say it was a very interesting insight to be within a country, and chatting to local people that follow a political philosophy that I have been brought up to see as totally and utterly wrong.

As far as the Cuban people go, well they have to be one of the friendliest nations I've visited. At no time did either of us feel remotely unsafe, not even me when I went for a walk around the city at dawn due to a messed up body clock. 

'Hola!' is the common cry of greeting, and we heard it all the time from individuals wherever we went. And it wasn't just in response to us saying it first, so not just a case of locals feeling they have to reply out of politeness; no they often got in there first, and it was always accompanied by a smile, and often a wave. 

I know we are renowned for our British reserve, but I do think we could learn something from the Cubans about being just a bit more friendly, welcoming, and willing to talk to others.

A wealth of delicious foods, amazing hospitality, and a seemingly unending number of musicians playing samba, salsa, jazz, and more on street corners as well as in all the bars, restaurants and cafes just added to the beauty of the experience that encapsulates Cuba. Throw in the sun, sand, sea and snorkelling - well I could be in danger of sounding like a travel agent promoting holidays in Cuba!

But three specific reflections to ground things a bit more. 

One is a law that Cuba has which I just really liked as being so traveller friendly. Apparently, it is the law that any government vehicle, if they have space and are going in the right direction, must pick up any person waiting for a lift by the side of the road. Now I admit we didn't try this law out, as we didn't have the need, but there were several times when we were on a bus owned by a government travel company, that we stopped and picked up individuals, usually Cubans, and gave them a lift to wherever they were wanting to go along our route. 

As a result, those people didn't need to spend hard-earned and precious money on bus fares etc, and yet they still got to where they wanted to go. Yes there is the uncertainty of whether transport will be available, so it doesn't work if you are on a tight timetable, but if you have the flexibility then this is a pretty good law. Not sure that National Express or MegaBus would be up for it in the UK, and I suspect Fidel Castro doesn't pick many people up in his government car, but still works well on the whole, and especially in a country where capitalism and big profits isn't top priority.

The second little story relates to earnings of the locals. Now for this to fully make sense, you need to know that there are two currencies in Cuba - the local currency (CUP's) and the tourist currency (CUC's). 1 CUC is worth about 25 CUPs, and is thus very prized by the locals and if they can get hold of any CUCs it can make a big difference to their income. 

On one of our beach resort days, we went out on a catamaran with a local guide to do some snorkelling amidst the corals and exotic fish that are just a short boat ride off shore. As I was swimming along, I noticed something on the sea floor, about 3m below. It looked like 4 bank notes, and there didn't appear to be anyone trying to retrieve them. So I called over Hector, our guide, and pointed them out to him. He immediately saw what I was pointing to, and swam down and collected all the notes in one go in order to give them back to me, thinking it was money I had dropped.

I told him it wasn't my money, and as no one else was looking for it, he could rightfully keep it for himself. The look of incredulity on Hectors face spoke volumes, and when he spoke he just said 'I can treat my family'. I carried on snorkelling for the rest of the allotted time, but when we got back to the catamaran I asked him how much money there was, and he said it amounted to 35CUCs (about £30).

The average wage here is 15 CUCs per month, so in this one little incident, Hector had gained the equivalent of two months extra wages. Not surprising that he was all smiles as we sailed back to shore, but it just reinforced to me how close to poverty so many Cubans live, and how massive the gap is between them and us - for a tourist they can lose £30 and not really notice it, but for the locals that is a massive treat that would normally just be dreamed of.

Final reflection: looking forward.

One of the most notable absences from this trip on the tourist side of things is the lack of Americans, due to the longstanding hostilities between the two countries that mean it is incredibly hard for our neighbours across the pond to get in to Cuba.

Canadians are here by the bucketful, but no Americans. However, all that will soon change. On Sunday president and Mrs Obama and their entourage arrive in Havana for a 4day visit that is part of the process of improving relationships with Cuba, and within either 6 or 18 months (depending on whether 'next fall' is 'Fall 2016' or 'Fall 2017') there will be 110 flights per day arriving in Cuba from USA. 110 flights per day - that's approx 3000 Americans per day flooding into this lovely little country, and heaven only knows where they will all go, and what they will all do.

But come they will, and with them will come all manner of global companies that are pleasantly absent at the moment. Macdonalds, KFC, Starbucks, Krispy Kreme - how long before they are all here on every street corner? Oh that Cuba will have the forethought to protect their country from this potential takeover by the worst excesses of westernisation.

Unfortunately though, whilst the absence of such outlets is very welcome for those of us who have easy access to them at home, whether we like it or not, chatting to the Cubans it is clear that they are looking forward to the arrival of these companies that until now they've just heard about but never had the chance to experience.

Yes it's true, apparently if you don't have access to Macdonalds fast-food outlets, or Starbucks coffee shops, or Nike brand shoes etc, then they are the things to get excited about. I guess it's all about perspective. What some see as development, and progress towards an aspired style of life, others see as something to escape from, as a lifestyle that is a step too far, and part of an unsustainable rhythm.

I wouldn't want to deny Cubans the opportunity to experience choice, or to try out some of these aspects of life that we have such easy access to. Who am I to say what is right and wrong for individuals, or what is acceptable development rather than too much. So much of it depends on your starting point, your underlying set of values and beliefs, and on your end goal.

But what I do hope and pray is that, once the relentless machine of westernisation has got started over here, it won't roll so mercilessly forward that the Cubans lose all ability to control it.

Yes, may progress take place in the form of improved relationships, and opening up of new opportunities, but may that progress happen in a way that allows the specialness of Cuba to remain intact, and the beauty of the country and its people to come out unscathed.

Betty, Agnes, John and Morris - 4 Acholi adult literacy students

The African adventure may be over for a few months, but as promised, here are a few stories of lives improved, and hope restored by the Acholi Adult Literacy programme.

It was so encouraging to hear what it difference it makes - just being able to read some signs, write your name, even know how to hold a pencil - things we take so much for granted, but are not givens at all, in so many parts of the world. Tis an honour to be involved in touching one of those locations, even as lightly as we are.

Betty

Married with 9 children from age 4 to 16, one of whom is a nephew who she cares for, 4 of the children are in the children’s literacy classes that have just been started up: Peter age 11, Janet age 9, Richard age 6 and Ronald also age 6 (the nephew)

In the morning Betty works in the quarry and in the afternoon she makes beads which she uses to make the triple strand and the long and extra-long necklaces.

Betty started at the adult literacy classes in Jan 2015, but has been very intermittent in attendance due to having to work etc. She got to P5 level at school before she had to leave but has forgotten most of it

Attending the literacy classes is helping  her to remember her previous schooling and now she is able to read signs when she is out which makes her feel much safer than she used to.

She wishes that she could do more classes, but she has to work as there are so many in the family to look after

Agnes

 Widowed and looking after 7 dependents – 2 children, 4 grandchildren, and 1 other child of similar age to the grandchildren, Agnes has a son, David  who is currently unemployed and has just started attending the adult literacy classes. She also has a disabled daughter who is unable to work

Agnes works at the quarry and also makes beads which are used for the long necklaces and woven bracelets. The beads are small and she is finding them hard to do as her eyesight isn’t so good.

Agnes has never been to school so the adult literacy classes are the first education she has ever had. Now she knows how to hold a pen properly and write her name. It makes her feel good and she wants to learn some more. Now that David also does the classes he is able to help her a little at home with practicing her writing

John

Married with 9 children (6 alive, 3 passed away), John works in the quarry as does his wife.

John is Christine’s dad. Christine and a brother attend the literacy kids classes

John got to P5 when a child before having to leave school due to LRA troubles.

He wants to go to college to train to be a builder, so the adult literacy classes are the first steps to realizing that dream.

Morris

Married, with 7 children ages ranging from 21 to 3 months, Morris works in the quarry as does his wife. His wife also does beads

Morris went to P5 at school when a child, and through the adult literacy classes, which he has now attended for 2 months, he has learnt to write his name etc, and to read signs etc. It is helping his schooling to come back to him

Morris would like to be a carpenter and so is glad that the literacy classes are increasing his chances of getting to college, and of having a small business.

The highs and one low of an Acholi visit

Anyone who knows anything about what makes me tick, especially when it comes to working with the poor and marginalized, will know that one of the key  communities in my heart is the Acholi Quarters.

Inhabited by the Acholi people after they had fled from the horrors of the Lords  Resistance Army reign of terror, they have lived in an informal settlement on the edge of Kampala ever since, eking out a living from the two stone quarries that dominate that part of the city.

I have been visiting the community since 2010, taking teams in there initially for just one chaotic session per trip, to run  an afternoon of games for the children, most of whom don’t ever go to school due to poverty.

In 2014, Natalie spent 3 months of her gap year supporting the Acholi and running ‘lessons’ for children and adults alike – teaching the children very basic concepts like how to hold a pencil, how to share and take turns, as well as letters, numbers, shapes etc, and helping some ladies to rekindle some of the learning they had started as children but had lost out on the chaos of the war.

Also in 2014, the troubles in Kenya caused us to relocate a team to Uganda, and from that came the first week long CRED visit to Acholi, running an educational activity week for some of the children, and reinforcing what Natalie had started as well as introducing it to larger numbers.

We have run subsequent team trips there but each time I’ve come away wishing that we could somehow find a way to set up something that can keep going so that the children don’t get tantalizing snatches of education but then have it taken away again.

On each visit we would work with the same cooperative of ladies, headed up by Harriet, and it has been lovely to see them develop and blossom as individuals and as a group.

It is out of that blossoming, and increasing self-belief and empowerment, that the Acholi-led projects have developed.

On one visit, some of the adults came to me and asked when I would bring a team to work with them – I was challenged by their request, and after conversation with Harriet we identified a local Acholi lady who is training to be a teacher and who agreed to run adult literacy classes. These started Jan 2015 for some ladies and have been going well ever since.

Last month, the next development in the classes took place when some men joined the ladies. Inspired by seeing how the women were benefiting from the classes, some of the men asked if they could also access the lessons. Initially the plan was to have men meeting one day, ladies another, but after a meeting of everyone together, it was decided that the best thing would be to have two joint classes rather than one each. Quite radical really, and definitely paving the way for more joint working and breaking down of gender barriers

 I’ll blog a couple of stories from the adult literacy beneficiaries another day, but for now let me tell you about the children’s Education Catch Up sessions that the community have started running.

I am so thrilled about these – it really is a dream come true, and what is even better is that it came from the community, and not from ‘mzungu’ do-gooders coming in from outside dictating what needs to be done.

Having been inspired by seeing how much the children enjoyed the CRED visits, and the learning that went with them, the parents got together with Harriet and co, and requested a ‘school’ be started.

A teacher was found, a room was rented, desks were bought, and the parents committed to finding exercise books and pencils for their children.

In all it costs about £70/ month to cover the teacher salary and rent for the children’s education programme. The ladies in the cooperative put in some money to the programme as they are able and no assumptions are made about where the rest of the money comes from – but God is a great provider and He touches peoples hearts as is needed.

It was absolutely wonderful to see the programme in action yesterday, and to see how far the community has come – truly humbling to be part of the journey.

But just to keep me grounded and to remind me of the harshness of life, I then went to visit a friend who gave birth to her 3^rd child on Saturday. He’s just a tiny little mite, as you’d expect of a week-old baby, and mum and dad are chuffed to bits. But at one point the dad felt compelled to swallow his pride and tell me how worried they are, because mum is HIV+ve and unable to feed baby, but dad is out of work and they are struggling to buy the milk.

In an ideal world they would just go to the shops, buy a tub of formula, and make the milk up as needed using clean tap water or boiled water; but for this couple, and so many like them, life is far from ideal, and for them their only option, with no spare cash, is to buy baby milk on an ‘as and when’ basis from the little shed of a shop nearby.

A cup of milk costs 700 shillings (14.5p) and so when baby is hungry that is the amount they have to find and then go buy a cup of milk from the nearby shop. Three concerns with that system are that the milk is not the right formula for the baby, that it has not been made to the right strength ie is watered down, and that it has been made with contaminated water.

Obviously I bought them some tubs of milk powder – who wouldn’t in that situation – and have encouraged them to save up all their individual 700 shillings, so that when the tubs run out they have saved enough to buy some more powder.

But that little incident reminded me once again of the fragility of life, the harsh reality of life for so many, and the responsibility each of us has to be good stewards of what we have been entrusted with – to not squander it, or waste it, or live selfishly with it, but to do what we can, selflessly and with open hearts, to improve the lives of all, and especially those who are the most vulnerable.